Mamallapuram and Chennai, India

John was in Chennai, on the east coast of India, attending a conference so I went to some of the attractions without him. Mamallapuram is a magnificent collection of sculptured bas reliefs south of town, that were carved into and out of the giant boulders that naturally covered the hill.



The one below is made into a room from solid rock but like the others it had never been consecrated so is treated more like a playground than a temple.



Besides the children climbing over the rocks there were monkeys and goats all over the place.

The colorful clothes the locals wore and the grey rocks created a stark contrast.

Frequently when I got my camera out locals would want me to take their picture, and then thank me. So unlike what I had become used to in other parts of the world where people are camera shy, here they would strike a pose and then ask if I would join the family in their picture and we would all stand together laughing and smiling.

Wherever I went there seemed to be groups of school children who would squeal and wave and get very excited at having their picture take and then squeal again and giggle when I showed them the results.

The traffic in Chennai was horrendous. There were four rows of traffic in a road marked with two lanes, but most often there were no markings on the road and it was a complete free for all. Every vehicle blows its horn in continuous beeps creating a din that is hard to comprehend and difficult to experience. This picture is taken from inside one of the three wheeled putt-putts, also called autos, yellow and black taxis like the one you can see in front. They are all over the city like wasps and about as dangerous.

I turned left out of the hotel and walked about a kilometer and found myself in the Nagar Bazaar. It is really little more than a shopping street with dozens of stalls and eager sales people. No one really hassled me and I only saw a couple of beggars who were pleading to the locals as much as they were to me.

Shopping was good! Some folks might need a little courage to tackle the street bazaars but I am right at home.

The other point of interest for me was that St. Thomas had lived, worked and died here; the Apostle "Doubting Thomas" that is. I was able to visit the cave where he lived, the spring that he created when those around him became thirsty, and the place where he was martyred. Well, the local story is that he was shot by an arrow in a hunting accident but don’t tell the Pope that because he was there and blessed the masses from the mount.

First I had to make my way past the children from the church school going for their morning prayers in the circular church.

Then I took what was a typical picture of women working; moving rocks.

This is the entrance to St. Thomas’ cave, where the Apostle lived, over which the church is now built. The cross carved in the stone is said to have been by his own hand. Inside it was actually a rather comfortable area with light from a window on the other side permitting the air to flow through. An alter is inside now and a rock said to have been worn into smooth grooves by his forearms as he lent over it in prayer. And then we went behind the church to the spring where the caretaker drew a tin cup up and presented it to me for a drink. OK, so if it is Holy Water I won’t catch a bug, right?

I then climbed 135 steps up St. Thomas Mount where he died, also known as the Holy Hillock. Within the little marble chapel that is void of pews, is a Holy Relic, a minute chip of his bone. There is also the cross that he is said to have carved and been preying before when he was martyred. It was rediscovered in the 16^th century and from 1551 through 1704 sweated blood on the anniversary of his death. It has a black stain but I doubt it has been DNA tested. There are some fourteen century paintings as well as one that is credited to the hand of St. Luke.

This is a view of Chennai from where Pope John Paul blessed the masses that covered the hillside below.

To conclude my little pilgrimage I went to the Basilica of St. Thome where his body resides along with additional Relics.

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